Weekend road trip to Burlington, Vermont – Times Union
Weekend road trip to Burlington, Vermont Times Union
Upstate New York skiers know that Vermont’s beautiful mountains are among the best places to ski within driving distance. But if you choose to venture beyond the slopes, a weekend stay in Burlington, where chilly air blows in off Lake Champlain, is the quintessential Northeast winter getaway.
Burlington started as a settlement for shipbuilding and was at one point the third-largest lumber port in the country. By the mid-19th century, Burlington’s commerce had grown exponentially, powering growth that made it Vermont’s largest city.
Sitting on the south side of the Winooski River, the city has also been known as a college town with the University of Vermont established in the late 18th century. Today it stands as a pillar of the community, nurturing a consistently youthful population.
Find more weekend road trips: coastal Rhode Island | the lower Adirondacks | Cape Ann, Mass. | The Thousand Islands
How to get to Burlington
A three- to four-hour drive from the mid-Hudson Valley, the trip to Burlington takes you north on I-87, through Lake George and onto Route 22A, which treks up through Vermont’s farmland with scenic views of the Adirondack Mountains to the left and the Green Mountains to the right.
However, if you accidentally take the ferry (like I did on my most recent Burlington visit), you may be trading in some mountain views for a chilly lake ride. There are three routes for Lake Champlain Ferries between New York and Vermont, but the Port Kent route takes you directly into Burlington.
Day 1: Skiing and good eats
There are a few things that may be calling you to Vermont at this time of year. If skiing is one of them, a successful day on the slopes can be found at Stowe Mountain Resort, Sugarbush Resort and Bolton Valley Resort, all within an hour’s drive of Burlington.
Stowe has been called the “ski capital” of the East, and the resort is something out of a Hallmark Christmas movie. But you’ll also find that the town of Stowe is quaint and charming — a perfect small-town destination outside of Burlington.
Bolton Valley Resort has 71 trails for skiers and snowboarders of all levels and is popular for its night skiing. Sugarbush, a favorite of Vermont locals, has 111 trails.
Before you haul your skis into the car, fuel up at one of Burlington’s swanky breakfast spots: The Friendly Toast or The Skinny Pancake, which also has a location in Albany if you decide you can’t live without their decadent sweet and savory crepes.
Hudson Valley natives may also find a familiar dining atmosphere at Revolution Kitchen, which serves up a vegetarian and vegan menu with dishes like wild vegetable ravioli and Buffalo cauliflower tacos. Admired by meat-eaters and full vegans alike, for years Revolution Kitchen has been run by the former owners of Dutchess County staple Luna 61, which was located in Tivoli and frequented by students, locals and foodies from near and far. Now being turned over to new owners, Revolution Kitchen is getting a makeover and will reopen in March. Just in time for an end-of-season visit.
Other four- to five-star dining options to try during your stay include Hen of the Wood, which has a down-to-earth locally sourced menu headed by chef Eric Warnstedt; Honey Road, a Mediterranean joint with a vegetable-heavy menu; Farmhouse Tap and Grill, a casual American bistro with a raw bar and stellar beer list; and American Flatbread, a wood-fired pizzeria.
If you’re anything like me, the cold weather is not enough to steer you away from a cold dessert like ice cream. And while in Vermont you won’t want to miss an opportunity to visit a Ben & Jerry’s. Fortunately, there’s one on the city’s main strip, Church Street, with every flavor you can imagine (and some you probably can’t).
Day 2: Parks, museums and a night on the town
Whether you’re achy from the slopes or aren’t quite the skiing type, there is plenty to keep you busy in Burlington’s city center.
Bundle up and spend the day on walking trails in Ethan Allen Park, Burlington’s highest point, complete with a lookout tower and plenty of surrounding forested area. Trails here span 4.2 miles and are open for visitors to walk, run, bike or even snowshoe. The space is home to various species of tree and is a great spot for birding and spotting local wildlife year-round.
Closer to the lake is Burlington’s Greenway Bike/Walk Path, where you can walk alongside the water from one end of the city to the other. There are 8 miles of paved pathway running along the Lake Champlain shoreline from Oakledge Park in the south to the Winooski River in the north. The pathway has shoulders for runners and walkers, and several local bike shops offer rentals along the way.
By the Old North End of town, you can also find the Intervale Center, which has trails open 365 days a year along the Winooski River and throughout the surrounding farmland. There are even select trails only open during the winter months groomed for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.
For a lunchtime bite, try one of the Burlington spots featured on the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.” These include Pingala Cafe, a vegan comfort food spot sitting on the Winooski River. Try the nachos or Guy Fieri-approved Crunchwrap Supreme for a midday snack. Just down the street, Bluebird Barbecue bears Fieri’s stamp of approval (plus those of Eater, Food and Wine, and many more) and brings all the realness of southern barbecue to the chilly Northeast.
If you brought the kids, the Echo Center, a nonprofit facility with interactive educational exhibits, is a good place for children to learn how to care for the environment and respect wildlife. As Vermont’s first LEED-certified building, the Echo Center utilizes green systems like solar paneling, smart lighting and passive heating and cooling, and hosts more than 70 species of fish, reptiles and amphibians.
Art lovers can find new exhibits every semester at the University of Vermont’s Fleming Museum of Art, which has a 24,000-piece collection of objects from global cultures. For the spring semester, three exhibits are opening on Feb. 7, including “Formulation: Articulation,” about German artist Josef Albers’ use of color, and “Art/Text/Context,” which explores the significance of text and context to the processes of making, interpreting and displaying art.
In the evening, take to Church Street, the cobblestone main strip of Burlington, which is closed to traffic year-round. There, you can stroll, shop, grab a coffee or hot cocoa, and admire twinkling lights that light up the city even on a cloudy or rainy evening.
Stroll further to the waterfront to grab a beer and catch live music at Foam Brewers. Keep the party going at the city’s best bars on Main Street and the streets surrounding City Hall Park in the center of town. Some favorites include Three Needs, a pizza joint with a bar, pool tables, and moody lighting or The Archives for arcade games and fun cocktails. Find a fancier vibe at The Whiskey Room or Orlando’s Bar and Lounge.
Where to stay in Burlington
There are plenty of places to nestle up after a long day of winter activities. An easy option is the Hilton Burlington Lake Champlain, which sits overlooking the lake and is a short walk from Church Street and waterfront shops and restaurants.
A hip local option downtown is Hotel Vermont, which has fresh yet cozy design elements (“rustic and modern,” in the hotel’s parlance). It also has a restaurant and bar called Juniper and gathering places for a business meeting or family get-together.
Hotel Vermont is a Hotel Vermont is a stylish modern hotel in downtown Burlington with rates starting around $350 per night. (Photo: Provided by Hotel Vermont) Hotel Vermont is a Hotel Vermont is a stylish modern hotel in downtown Burlington with rates starting around $350 per night. (Photo: Provided by Hotel Vermont)
For even more local charm, Made INN Vermont is a boutique hotel with a revamped old-time B&B feel. Enjoy their made-to-order breakfasts with locally sourced organic foods every morning, and their self-described “Soho funky meets New England history” atmosphere.